New Puppy Guide: A companion resource for your dog’s first year of life

Becoming a pet parent is a big responsibility, and if you’ve never owned a dog before — or even if you have and it’s been a while! — you likely have many questions when it comes to ensuring your puppy feels happy, safe, and comfortable in their new space. Vetster medical consultants have curated a high-level resource of the most important things to keep in mind when it comes to caring for your puppy.

Vetster wants to provide you with easy-to-digest facts — not overload you with information. Puppy care is fun after all, and your time is best spent petting, playing, and cuddling! Read on if you’ve ever wondered:

• How should I get my home ready for my new puppy?
• How do I socialize my puppy?
• What kinds of foods are best for my puppy?
• How can I train my puppy?
• What kind of grooming does my puppy need?

Of all the life stages of our canine friends, there’s nothing quite like the puppy stage. There are plenty of questions to answer when you bring a new pet into your home, and they are best uncovered in collaboration with your licensed veterinarian. Vetster’s puppy guide can be a helpful companion to those conversations.

Bringing a new puppy into your home is an exciting time and, like any good pet parent, you’ll want to make sure you have everything in place to ensure your new friend feels comfortable and safe and is as happy to be with you as you are with them!

Essential Tools

Before you bring your new puppy home, make sure you have the following items on hand:

• A leash, collar, and identification
• A nutritionally complete dog food
• Food and water bowls
• Toys: chew toys and balls to play fetch
• An appropriate-size crate and bedding
• A brush or comb
• Nail clippers
• Dog treats for training and rewarding good behavior
• Doggie bags and a bag holder for waste removal

Puppy-proofing

Puppies are just as curious about the world as children are. They love to wander and explore their surroundings, so there are a few things to keep in mind as you puppy-proof your home.

Garbage and other sources of food

Dogs have a strong sense of smell and a poor sense of what constitutes food. This will lead them to find things they shouldn’t get into, often in your waste bins. As much as we like to think they appreciate the leftovers, waste from human food can be harmful to puppies.

Hazardous garbage isn’t limited only to the kitchen; make sure the trash in other rooms is also covered or out of reach. Even though they don’t sound appealing to us, used feminine hygiene products and diapers are a favorite canine snack and consuming them is a common reason for a trip to the pet ER. To keep your curious pup from digging around in your garbage and potentially eating anything dangerous out of the trash, make sure you use covered trash cans and keep them out of reach or behind closed doors.

Waste bins aren’t the only place your learning puppy will find food. Kids’ snacks on the couch, dirty dishes on a desk, lunch sacks in a backpack, and even food on the counter are all fair game. Your pup will think anything left within reach is theirs, even if they have to chew through something to get at it. Cat food is no exception. To your puppy’s way of thinking, that’s not cat food. It’s just food!

Houseplants

Common houseplants that you wouldn’t think twice about, such as sago palms and dieffenbachia are actually poisonous to dogs. In general, houseplants should be far from reach, be it on a window sill or above cabinets, but consider removing toxic houseplants altogether. Keeping potted plants out of reach will also keep puppies who like to dig from turning your living room into chaos.

Dog gates

Dog gates make it easier to confine your puppy to limited areas of the house. Place gates strategically around potentially dangerous areas (like at the foot of stairs) and in other locations to keep your little four legged friend from wandering off and finding mischief. Most young puppies cannot handle the responsibility that comes with access to the entire home. They require supervision at all times, and dog gates can help limit which parts of the house they’re allowed in. Since gates are easy to move, they also provide the flexibility that allows for gradual expansion of the puppy’s territory within the house as they get older.

Chewing and choking hazards

Puppies explore with their mouths as much as they do with their paws. Chewing is instinctive to puppies and a completely normal behavior, so you’ll need to hide away your cords and chargers, small toys, and anything else you don’t want destroyed or swallowed. This is another reason to keep a lid on the trash!

Bathrooms

This area may not pop immediately to mind when puppy-proofing your home, but it’s inevitable a young, curious pup will find her way in there. Keep medications and pill organizers well out of reach. Be sure to unplug and store dryers and curling irons – as well as easily ingested hair accessories – and of course, keep the toilet lid down and the trash can covered.

Introducing a new puppy to your home means introducing them to more than just a new space. If you already have other pets or children in the home, here are some considerations to ensure a smooth meet n’ greet. Like any introduction, you’ll want both parties to make a good first impression.

Introducing dogs to each other

Get the young’un off to a good start with the veteran pooch of the house. Ideally, choose a neutral setting outside the home, such as a park or outdoor space, that neither dog views as their territory. When facilitating the introduction, pay attention to both dogs’ body language. If you notice either pooch getting tense, or if they run over to you and away from the other dog, give them the space they need. If this happens, it does not necessarily mean the meeting went poorly. Your pup may simply need a break or for the introduction to proceed more slowly. Don’t force social interactions. Instead, allow them to get to know each other on their own terms.

Outdoor interactions in a fenced yard are usually less complicated and chaotic, primarily because it’s easy for either dog to run away and opt out of the interaction. Have your dogs acclimate to each other by walking them together, letting them play off-leash and sniff each other at will. Once they seem to be comfortable with this, it’s more likely indoor interactions will go well. Provide safe spaces where each dog can be assured of “alone time”, and don’t be too quick to interfere with normal canine communication even if it seems alarming to you. Dogs communicate with body language and tools like growling and snapping are important for getting messages across. Talk to a virtual vet to learn more about how to decipher their complex language.

Always remember that each dog needs to have its own crate, bedding, and food bowls. To start, these should be in separate rooms, and dogs should have separate toys. It’s expected that your dogs will want time alone from each other, so make sure to pay attention to shifts in their moods. Be patient and expect your puppy’s relationship with her new housemate to develop over time.

Introducing dogs to the family cat

Cats are territorial, and this should be top of mind when designing this meet-n-greet. Scents are even more important here – before any paw-to-paw interaction, let both cat and pup become familiar with each other’s scents. Start by keeping the animals in separate rooms or sanctuaries, but leave a small blanket or towel in each animal’s space for a day or two before swapping them. That way each pet can become familiar with the smell. Attaching a smell to a positive connotation, such as food, is another tool; it’s as easy as placing the blanket next to each pets’ feeding bowl.

When you’re ready for that first face-to-face interaction, let it take place through a safety barrier like a screened baby gate. Be sure each animal has the opportunity to walk away from the interaction, and never force them to be close to each other. Don’t do introductions in either pet’s safe space, but let them retreat to that location if they want to. Use treats and speak in a fun, positive manner that sends a message that this is fun. It  may take some time before both are comfortable with each other, so repeat brief interactions daily and be patient.

Check out our blog for more information! Cats and dogs… it can work!

Introducing dogs to your kids

Keep the interactions brief at first and supervision is critical. Provide opportunities for interaction several times a day, but don’t force either party to participate when they don’t want to. Encourage your kids to be calm, predictable and respectful around the puppy. Your eager pup will learn not to jump up on the kids more quickly if they’re the ones calling the shots, so teach them tactics like turning their backs and calling out “NO!” in a big voice. If the necessary self-control is too challenging for either party and a little bit of distraction ineffective, end the encounter instead of using punishment or negative reinforcement. Be proactive about teaching children that consistency is key. If biting is not allowed, for example, it’s confusing for your pup to engage in any type of hand play. Impressionable puppies won’t understand why they are allowed to bite hands under one set of circumstances, but not another.

Warning: younger kids may be excited about a new puppy. In order for young dogs to feel comfy around your children, give them plenty of play time together. This type of socializing involves training the pup not to jump up, bark, and nip. Teach your kids to never grab, hold, hug, squeeze or tug on any part of your puppy since this can be scary and potentially trigger growling and snapping or downright biting.

The pet food industry is huge and its marketing engine is loud. It is easy to get overwhelmed and, frankly, confused. For instance, terms like “gourmet”, “premium”, “farm-raised” and “butcher-quality” are unregulated and entirely meaningless, but pet food manufacturers are eager to use them to convince you to choose their products.

The truth is, your puppy needs a nutritious diet – but they don’t need you to go on a quest hunting for some magical formula. A puppy’s diet is essential for healthy growth, maintaining a proper weight, and boosting their immune system, but it doesn’t have to be complicated or special.

Dogs are omnivores, so it’s not ideal to feed them a meat-only diet. A balanced diet includes a variety of ingredients that help meet your pup’s nutritional needs led by the big six: water, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins.

Water is easy to address. Puppies need free access to fresh water at least throughout the day. It is ok to leave your puppy overnight without water in the crate to avoid messy spills. Healthy puppies are perfectly safe going all night without a drink,  but you can purchase a bowl holder to keep the water dish in place inside the crate if you prefer.

Deciding what and how to feed your puppy seems a lot more complicated, at least at first. When you get down to the facts about what really matters, however, it’s simple. Choose a nutritionally complete dog food that your puppy appears to do well on and take the time to build a habit for a feeding schedule that works for you.

At six to eight weeks of age, your pup is growing rapidly and may want to eat three or four times a day. If he starts to refuse any of these smaller, more frequent meals, that’s your signal to back down on the frequency. Gradually shift to larger meals less often.

By 12 weeks of age, a healthy puppy is expected to cope just fine with two meals daily. By  6-8 months of age most puppies can adapt to being fed only once a day, if that’s your preference. Remember you are in charge of determining what and when your puppy (and adult dog) eats. Leaving important decisions like this to them can lead to health issues as well as stress and anxiety for both of you. Exceptionally tiny puppies and puppies with other health issues are a special exception and may require more frequent meals. Speak to a veterinarian if you have questions about your puppy’s feeding schedule.

Avoid allowing your dog to play games with you when it comes to feeding times and quantities. It’s important to develop good habits early in puppyhood to prevent the health issues associated with obesity.

How much should you feed? Most young puppies are too easily distracted and busy playing to overeat. Offer food at the designated time and let them eat as long it holds their interest. Take the food away when the puppy appears finished or after a minute or two. This builds good habits for a lifetime of healthy eating.

As your puppy grows, it becomes even more important to be proactive about avoiding obesity. Feed your dog based on body weight, not apparent satiety. Most adult dogs will overeat if left to their own devices and will eat whatever they’re offered, even if it’s too much.

At Vetster, we make it easy for you to establish good feeding routines by explaining common pitfalls and proven strategies for success.

Decision time: dry or wet?

The decision to feed dry or canned food to your puppy is determined by your lifestyle, personal preference, and budget. There are a variety of nutritionally-complete puppy foods available on the market, and odds are overwhelmingly likely your pup will do just fine on most, if not all, of them. Your decision about what kind of food to use is largely a consumer decision, not a health care decision. There are good and not-so-great diets available in both formulations. Talk to us at Vetster to learn more about how to read dog food labels and provide your puppy with the nutrition they need.

Canned foods are often more expensive than dry kibble, but some people prefer this option. Dry food is more convenient to serve, easier to store, and usually has a longer shelf life.

Even when you work with a vet to choose what’s best for your puppy, remember to observe how your puppy seems to be developing on his current diet. If you’re using a nutritionally-complete food that your puppy appears to do well on, chances are good that it’s a great diet for them.

A note about fad diets

Raw, vegan, grain-free: the list goes on. You can count on a never-ending stream of the latest and greatest trends to be pushed onto well-intentioned pet parents who want the best for their pets. When your goal as a pet parent is to make smart nutrition choices in order to maximize your pet’s health, it’s critical to steel yourself against the onslaught of targeted marketing efforts that have no basis in science. Online forums can be hotbeds of discussion about the benefits of any of a number of nutrition fads, but be wary. Pet food companies are working hard to compete for your business, and forums full of conscientious pet parents who think this is a good way to become informed are happy to amplify their messages. Talk to a veterinarian or board-certified nutritionist before hopping on the latest bandwagon to make informed decisions about nutrition that are backed by medical science.

Label gazing: Packages are confusing

Most of the wording on pet food labels doesn’t actually tell you anything about the quality of the food. Performing real research into a pet diet means finding answers to questions like this:

• Is the manufacturer (not just the distributor) clearly identified and is contact information provided?
• Does the manufacturer meet the World Small Animal Veterinary Association Guidelines on Selecting Pet Foods?
• Is the food formulated by a qualified nutritionist?
• What quality control processes are in place for both the ingredients and the finished product?
• Are there nutrition studies or other types of research published in peer-reviewed journals on their products?
• Does the label contain an AAFCO Nutritional Adequacy Statement?
• Does the label say it is a “complete” diet, or for specific “life stages”? If you are considering a food identified by life stage, make sure you pick one that is appropriate for your dog’s age.

These aren’t the easiest questions to answer, but talking to a veterinarian can help. More importantly, as a lifelong advocate for your dog’s health, it’s up to you to understand that the answers to questions like this have more to do with the quality of his diet than the information provided to you by advertisements or claims on the label.

When reading labels and choosing your puppy’s diet, don’t be distracted by what mostly amounts to advertising. Instead, focus primarily on finding an AAFCO statement. Even the ingredient list isn’t as helpful as you might think in determining if a food is healthy or not. Talk to your veterinarian to learn more.

There are a few simple ways you can make discerning choices when you shop for your puppy’s food, such as:

• Selecting a commercially prepared food with an AAFCO statement on the label is the easiest option for choosing a food that’s safe and nutritionally complete.
• Label claims about the appropriateness of a diet for certain life stages are regulated and something you can trust.
• Don’t underestimate how complicated it is to create a homemade diet that will be safe and nutritionally complete.
• A healthy puppy on a nutritionally complete diet for dogs doesn’t require any form of supplementation, including people food.
• Forbidding access to people food means your puppy will be safer from the risks of potentially toxic or dangerous foods and has the added benefit of not teaching them to beg for it.
• Stay abreast of pet food recalls. Both the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and the US Food and Drug Administration maintain current online lists.

Those first few weeks after bringing your puppy home are ground zero for training. We’ve all seen those perfectly well-behaved pups in the park and wondered how their owners managed it. Puppies don’t come with manners already installed; it takes time, patience, and consistency. Getting tips from a professional can help you get results quickly and avoid making mistakes you’ll have to fix later.

Choose times when  your pup is fairly relaxed in a quiet environment to work on training. Minimize distractions at first, but make sure all family members engage in the training process as your sessions continue.

Remember that training should be fun for both of you. Try not to think of training your pooch as just another item on your to-do list. Rather than set aside a chunk of time to teach obedience, you should try and integrate training throughout the day in different parts of your home. Ideally, aim for 15-20 minutes of training daily, made up of shorter sessions, which can help with limited attention spans!

You don’t have to reinvent the wheel when it comes to a training program. Avail yourself of the multitude of books and videos on the topic. Sign up for classes with your local shelter. Keep in mind that popular doesn’t necessarily equal safe and effective when it comes to training programs, and fads will come and go. Any training program that relies on heavy use of negative reinforcement, dominance, or creating fear of punishment should be avoided. Trust your instincts when it comes to selecting training resources, and talk to an online veterinarian for better clarity.

Should I take my puppy to training classes?

If you are a first-time dog owner, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. Experienced trainers can demonstrate training techniques and guide you to the quickest path to a well behaved puppy. Good manners don’t happen by accident, so everyone can benefit from participating in puppy classes.

Classes also provide opportunities for socialization, something that’s critical for puppies. Dogs need to learn how to appropriately engage strangers -both canine and human- while they are still young, and training classes provide an opportunity to develop those skills.

In addition to skill building, classes will help you find a dog-friendly social network that is beneficial for both of you. Once you start attending classes, your growing dog will be able to make some new friends that he can see outside class, such as at a nearby park.

Giving your puppy commands

Food is key in the puppy training tool kit – especially when it comes to teaching your puppy how to listen and obey commands. Treats can be used to lure your puppy into watching you and directing his focus to follow the treat. In the beginning, food should be visible when physically guiding your dog. For example, hold the treat up to get their attention, then move the treat down to the floor in front of them while guiding them to lie down while saying “down”. Linking a command with an action followed by a food reward helps your puppy understand the meaning of the command.

Over time, you can start offering treats at random when giving the command. Always reward with verbal affection (“Good dog!”) and physical touch alongside the treats. Receiving a food reward only intermittently once the behavior is established is the most successful strategy, but plan to keep a pocket full of treats on hand so they’re always available during these introductory stages of training.

It’s understandable to want to repeat commands in hopes that your pooch picks up on the meaning of “fetch” or “sit.” What this actually teaches your puppy is that he should expect several repetitions for the command to be obeyed. If your pooch doesn’t react to the command on the first try, consider slowing down, or trying that command again later. After all, you want to teach your pooch that the command is “Sit,” not “Sit. Sit. Sit.”

Positive vs. negative reinforcement

It’s important to distinguish between positive and negative reinforcement. Positive reinforcement is praising desired behaviors. Negative reinforcement is actively doing something unpleasant to discourage undesired behavior. Dog behaviorists agree that the most successful training strategies use only positive reinforcement. Punishing your pup physically or verbally is not an effective way of teaching your pooch to not repeat an action and can interfere with the training process, not to mention your developing pet-owner relationship.

Seek out opportunities to praise your pup for good behavior and use these tactics as your go-to strategies for misbehavior:

• Distraction: call out NO when the unwanted behavior starts and reward when they comply
• Substitution: offer them something else, like a toy instead of the unwanted behavior
• Withholding attention or other reward if the behavior continues

For example, If you catch your puppy doing something inappropriate, such as chewing a pillow, distract them by quickly calling out, “NO!” Offer praise the moment they stop and walk over to give them something they are allowed to chew on. Calmly take the pillow away and continue to provide praise as your pup moves their attention to the appropriate object. If your puppy ignores the new object and tries to jump on you to get the pillow, keep the pillow out of reach, turn your back and calmly walk away. Go behind a closed door if necessary, but let your puppy know you won’t participate in this game on their terms by making yourself unavailable until they settle down. If you need to return (without the pillow) to put your puppy in their crate, do so calmly. Keep in mind that repeating this scenario dozens of times a day does not mean you’re doing it wrong. Your puppy needs you to provide this type of strict guidance consistently while they test the waters to see what’s allowed.

The timing of any reinforcement is critical. If you didn’t witness the problematic behavior, such as when you find a potty mess in the living room long after the fact, it’s too late to teach your dog anything about it at that point. If you take her to the spot and yell at her, she’ll be confused and learn only that you get angry sometimes and that it’s bad to stand next to poop with you. Just clean it up quietly, praise her the next time she relieves herself in the correct location, and boost your supervision so she doesn’t have the chance to go to the bathroom in the house in the first place.

Don’t wait until your puppy is misbehaving to offer reinforcement. Look for opportunities to praise your pup frequently, offering a treat, a scratch, or some other form of attention. He’ll quickly catch on to doing the types of things that generate rewards and attention from you.

Crate training and housebreaking

So what’s the purpose of crate training anyway? A crate provides your puppy with a much-needed safe space where he can feel secure. Having a place of their own that provides this kind of downtime helps puppies recharge and know they have a safe spot where nothing scary happens. This encourages your growing dog to develop the confidence she needs to cope with life’s ups and downs. A crate is not a tool for punishment: it is a preventive measure to proactively address unwanted behavior. With young puppies, most “naughty” behavior is actually the result of a lack of supervision. In other words, most training mistakes are on us, not them. Using a crate allows you to schedule time for your dog to eat, play and relieve himself while ensuring he’s also in a safe space when you’re not around to provide the constant supervision a puppy needs.

Puppies have a natural instinct to avoid soiling their beds. Crate training takes advantage of this instinct to ease housebreaking. If the crate is only large enough for standing and lying down, your pup won’t want to go to the bathroom in it. Keeping him in a crate whenever you’re unable to provide close supervision will eliminate opportunities for him to sneak off and essentially teach himself that it’s okay to go to the bathroom in the house. The key to successful housebreaking is to supervise your puppy so closely that they never have a chance to relieve themselves in the house. This is nearly impossible without a crate.

The key points to remember about crate training are:

• Keep it fun.
• Consistently show your puppy good things happen in the crate.
• Use food and treats to reward good behavior and encourage use of the crate.
• Don’t inadvertently teach your puppy that barking and whining will summon you.
• Create routines; make sure your furry friend always has a chance to go outside right before going into the crate and first thing when coming out.

Finally: always remember the crate is never a place to punish your pooch!

Introducing leashes

Food is also useful when it comes to helping your puppy accept a leash. It is best to build up a puppy’s tolerance to walking on leash before you challenge him with a long walk in a public place. Puppies resist leashes and collars less when they’re introduced to them earlier in life. Your pup will be a lot less overwhelmed if the leash is introduced slowly and in an environment he is already familiar with – home.

Create a positive association with the leash by giving your dog treats when he sees it, especially the first few times you attach it to his collar. To get him used to being restricted, take him for “walks'' inside the home. Pay attention to good behavior, such as the pup looking back at you or not pulling, and reward this with food and verbal affection.

Next, choose a quiet street with minimal foot traffic and distractions. Let your puppy lead the way and continue to reward good behavior. Don’t be discouraged if it’s taking a while for your pup to feel comfortable; it can take weeks to go from indoor walking to outdoors in the parks and streets.

Remember, a leash is not a method of control, it’s all about safety.

Exercise

Puppies need daily exercise to burn energy, but how much exercise depends on age and breed. Don’t go overboard – puppies’ bones are still growing! You may see owners jogging with their dogs  – but this sort of exercise can be too intense for a young pup. Playing catch-and-return games like fetch, hiding treats or kibble in stacking containers your puppy has to pull apart, and light tug-of-war are all fun games to initiate play, physical activity, and even cognitive development by teaching self-control.

Remember that exercise is also critical for development of social and emotional bonds for your puppy. Be active when exercising your puppy and engage with them; don’t just assume they’ll meet their exercise needs on their own when turned out in the backyard. Playing with your puppy is one of the greatests gifts you can give them.

The importance of exercise:

• Provides a necessary outlet for excess energy
• Helps your puppy get into the right frame of mind for learning
• Builds confidence and trust with the dog owner
• Helps your puppy socialize with family, friends, and other dogs or dog owners
• Improves cardiovascular health and strengthens growing muscles
• It’s fun!

All dogs require some degree of grooming and hygiene. The exact type and frequency of grooming your puppy will require depends on their breed, haircoat, and your lifestyle. Some pups only require occasional attention to these details. Others are more high-maintenance and require trips to a groomer every few weeks. If grooming is going to be part of your puppy’s regular routine, start conditioning them to the process early, be patient, and do your best to keep it fun. Puppies are usually ready for their first grooming experience at about 10 weeks of age. Exercising your puppy right before grooming can make the process go more smoothly, and keep lots of treats on hand.

Nail trimming

It’s no secret that puppies usually don’t like having their nails trimmed, and one bad experience can make it even scarier for them. As with all dog training, patience and positive reinforcement will win the day. The most savvy puppy parents teach their impressionable pups that nail trimming is one of their favorite games.

Before you even start, let your dog sniff the nail clippers and reward with a treat. Repeat this simple step often and work up to touching her body and feet with the clippers before attempting any actual trimming. When you’re ready to actually clip a claw, some groomers recommend the puppy sit upright, while others choose to have them lie on their side – either way works, as long as your pooch can sit still enough for you to move the fur out of the way, fit the clippers over each nail, and trim a few millimeters. Start with a goal of trimming only one nail a day, but do it every day and keep it fun. Just trim off the hooked tip of the nail so you don’t have to worry about getting too close to the quick, where it will bleed and cause a brief moment of pain.

Trimming nails is not an easy task, especially if you’re inexperienced and nervous, but it’s doable. Don’t let your personal hesitation interfere with making it a positive training experience. If you’re overly anxious, your pup will pick up on that and be worried too. If you accidentally cut the claw too short and have a big reaction when your puppy yelps and pulls back, you’ll inadvertently teach them to be afraid of nail trimming.

Do:

• Expect your pup to be a little resistant at first
• Show your pup that this is no big deal
• Keep your voice calm and constantly praise your pup
• Keep sessions short and positive. One claw a day is plenty
• Trim only the hooked tip of the nail
• Have styptic powder on hand to push into the cut surface of a nail that’s been trimmed short enough to bleed
• Use food and treats to distract and reward your pup
• Have a helper: one person to provide treats and one person to trim
• Stay calm yourself

Don’t:

• Trim through the thick part of the nail close to the toe.
• Overreact if you accidentally clip a nail too short. This is no big deal.
• Allow your worries about the procedure show. Your puppy needs you to be confident.
• Use force to get through the process when your pup is afraid.

If you try these strategies and still don’t feel comfortable with nail trimming, leave it to the professionals.

Oral hygiene

It’s never too early to start a good dental hygiene habit. Even though puppies lose their baby teeth at around 4 months of age, start getting them accustomed to having their teeth and gums wiped with a soft cloth as soon as you bring them home. You can transition to an adult doggie toothbrush and toothpaste once the adult teeth grow in, but that’s not critical. The most important thing is that you do something to wipe the teeth and gums every day, so sticking with whatever you find easiest is the best strategy. If you decide to use toothpaste, be sure to choose a dog-specific product because adult human formulations are not safe to swallow. Many human toothpastes also contain the artificial sweetener xylitol, which is toxic for dogs.

Bathing

“How often should I bathe my puppy/dog?” is a common question, but the answer is really up to you. Dogs with medical problems are a separate issue, but for the most part you can bathe your dog as often or as infrequently as you like. As a general rule for healthy dogs, bathing more often than every other week should be avoided because this strips the skin of vital oils.

Puppies tend to get dirty often and frequent bathing may be necessary. If you find yourself having to bathe your playful puppy frequently, feel free to skip the shampoo sometimes. Rinsing a messy pup with only lukewarm water is perfectly fine. Hot water can dry out sensitive skin, so there’s no need to turn up the heat. If you must use shampoo, keep the suds away from eyes, ears, and mouth. Be gentle and rinse well. It’s tempting to reach for conditioner to add shine, but dogs with healthy skin and fur do not require this.

You might find it easier to wash a very young puppy by gently spot-cleaning their coat with a warm, wet towel. When you start actual bathing, keep the experience quick and fun. Avoid letting them catch a chill while drying in the open air.

Your puppy’s earliest experience of bathing should focus more on ensuring it’s a pleasant experience more than actual washing. Your puppy can be convinced that any activity is enjoyable as long as you set the tone accordingly.

Running water, combs, and brushes can be scary items at first, but start early and repeat training sessions to desensitize your pup to being touched by these objects. First, grab a comb and let your pup smell it before using it to gently smooth out their fur. If your pup seems afraid of running water, move away from the faucet and instead use a cup to pour lukewarm water over her.

Let your pooch have some fun by shaking themselves when it’s time to dry off, and then finish the job with a towel. If he gets the post-bath zoomies, that’s even better. After all, the main idea is to keep it fun.

The coat

Depending on the type of coat your new pup has, brushing your furry friend might be a necessary part of your grooming routine. Short- and medium-coated dogs can be more maintenance-free, but regular grooming is a necessity for long-haired dogs and dogs with a thick undercoat. Brushing helps get rid of dirt, dead hair, and tangles. If your dog has a thick undercoat that forms mats, stay on top of it with regular brushing before it becomes unmanageable and has to be shaved. Ignoring mats can lead to skin infections and other health problems.

Most folks with schnauzers, doodles, and other breeds who require regular trimming and shaving find it easiest to leave it to the professionals, scheduling visits to a groomer every 1-3 months or so. Some dogs don’t require shaving, but have a thick undercoat that will blow out periodically, with tufts of fur coming out in large quantities that must be plucked and stripped out. You’ll quickly learn if a metal comb, rake, or grooming mitt works best for your pup. Start when your pup is very young with short sessions and make it seem like a game so your little one learns to love grooming time. If your pup is hesitant, have a friend hold a spoon loaded with peanut butter (xylitol-free, of course) to distract and help him learn being brushed is a yummy experience.

While professional groomers know the best tricks and tips, more intrepid puppy parents may want to try DIY grooming. Familiarize yourself with the necessary tools like scissors and clippers and be patient both with yourself and your pup when learning. Online tutorials and in-person classes are available, and - when done correctly - grooming can be another activity you share with your pup that increases the strength of your bond. Even if you decide that you’d rather leave it to the professionals, they’ll appreciate any efforts you make to desensitize your pup to the process:

• Standing still on a table
• Being touched with objects
• Being touched with objects that buzz and vibrate
• Being touched everywhere

A dog who is accustomed to these types of interactions not only makes it easier for the groomer, but will also develop the coping skills necessary for putting up with this necessary type of handling without experiencing fear.

You are the main driver for your puppy’s health because raising a healthy puppy is the result of the decisions you make every day. Working with your vet to develop and follow a preventive health care plan backed up by evidence is essential to set your dog up for a long, healthy life.

First, build a roadmap with your virtual vet, who’ll have the latest scientific information around all aspects of preventive care and can also prioritize issues specific to your puppy’s breed and environment. Your virtual vet can also help you filter out the noise when you’re bombarded by advertising about what the market says is “best” for your puppy. When you look at the facts through a filter of education and medical science, these are the most important first steps for establishing a preventive health care plan for your new puppy:

An in-person, hands-on physical examination

It’s easily overlooked while you’re engaged in Puppy Q&A with your vet during that all-important first puppy visit, but there’s no substitute for having someone lay professionally trained eyes, ears, and hands on your new furry family member. Your vet will be taking note of everything from the tip of his nose to the end of his tail, as well as how he interacts and behaves. Not only will your vet use their experience to detect potential problems, they will also make a record of the things that are normal.

Even though an online vet is an excellent resource for timely and convenient virtual care, your puppy will need access to in-person medical care throughout his life, so build that relationship as soon as possible after bringing your furry friend home.

Vaccines

In short: they are a must. As with human vaccines, there is no one-size-fits-all. Different vaccines protect against specific ailments and different puppies are subject to different risks. Vaccine schedules are also tailored to address individual concerns. An online virtual vet appointment is a great opportunity for discussing the pros and cons of different vaccines and when and how often they should be given. Some of the vaccines your puppy may require protect them from diseases and viruses such as:

• Rabies – There is no treatment for rabies and it’s nearly always fatal. Keeping pets currently vaccinated against rabies is a legal requirement in most jurisdictions as a public health measure in place primarily to protect humans.
• DAPP – provides protection against distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. This 4-way shot is a core vaccine recommended for all puppies and dogs as it provides protection against some of the most common and deadly diseases for puppies.
• Bordetella – provides protection against one of the pathogens associated with kennel cough.
• Lyme disease– provides protection against Lyme disease, a growing concern due to spreading habitat for ticks.
• Leptospirosis – provides protection against infection caused by Leptospira bacteria, which is commonly transmitted to dogs who swim in or drink water from outdoor sources.

Generally puppies receive their first set of shots when they are between 6-8 weeks old and then receive boosters every 3-4 weeks until they’ve received two full sets after 12 weeks of age. Think you’re covered because your pup already had her shots when you picked her up?  Think again. Over-the-counter vaccines are problematic and even if her vaccines were administered by a vet, she’ll still need boosters. Talk to a virtual vet to learn the most sensible way to pick up her vaccination schedule where it left off.

Parasite control

Both internal and external parasites are very common in puppies, so keeping up a plan to eliminate and prevent them is a critical part of your puppy’s preventive health care. This is beneficial not only for your puppy’s health, but also to protect the humans who happen to share an environment with them.

Most of the time when we mention internal parasites, we’re talking about worms - and worms and puppies go together like salt and pepper. Like most parasites, worms usually don’t sicken their hosts, at least not immediately. This means the intestinal worms commonly found in puppies often go undetected at first. Worms living in the stomach and intestines are busy consuming food and sucking blood from the puppy’s digestive tract, so if the puppy has a lot of them or is especially small, they can end up getting sick. In order to protect the puppy as well as the people and any other pets in the house, it’s best to follow a schedule of frequent deworming and stool analysis for all puppies.

Heartworm is a type of internal parasite that deserves a special mention. Like the roundworm that lives in the digestive tract, this worm is also spaghetti-sized, but it takes up housekeeping in the large blood vessels near the heart and lungs. Instead of simply being an annoying freeloader who takes meals from what the dog has consumed or by directly sucking blood, this parasite can cause severe heart and respiratory disease. A heavy burden of heartworms can be lethal. Heartworm prevention is easy, safe, and inexpensive, but treatment is none of those, so protect your puppy from heartworm throughout their life. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations for heartworm testing and prevention and observe these heartworm dos and don'ts to keep your dog safe from this deadly parasite.

The phrase external parasites is usually used to describe fleas, ticks, mites, and lice. All of these can affect puppies and cause itchy rashes and hair loss. Fleas and ticks also carry a variety of infectious diseases that can be transmitted across different species, including humans. Mites and lice are usually transmitted directly from one affected pet to another, but fleas and ticks come from the environment. If you live in an area where fleas and ticks are found, it’s important to keep your puppy on a safe and effective form of flea and tick control. Many external parasite control products that are available over-the-counter are not safe or effective, so getting a  professional recommendation can help you avoid wasting time and money on something that won’t work or that could possibly sicken your puppy or other pets in the household.

To visualize the threat of parasites in the U.S. or Canada, check out this map feature made by the Companion Animal Parasite Council.

Spaying and neutering

The AAHA canine life stages guidelines suggest small-breed dogs should be neutered when they are six months old, whereas large breed dogs should be neutered after they stop growing. For female dogs, the recommended window to spay is between five to 15 months old, depending on overall health and lifestyle.

Spaying and neutering are important preventive health care interventions for dogs, which are shown to:

• Eliminate unwanted pregnancies, including the potential for an emergency cesarean section
• Reduce risk of breast cancer, especially when performed prior to the first heat cycle
• Eliminate of the possibility for an infected uterus (pyometra), which is common in intact female dogs
• Eliminate risk of testicular and uterine cancer.
• Reduce risk of prostate disease/cancer in aging male dogs
• Eliminate the hassle and behavior problems resulting from heat cycles
• Reduce or eliminate many unwanted behaviors like roaming, marking, and aggression.

It’s best to discuss sexual alteration of your dog in detail with your veterinarian as you finish your series of puppy vaccinations.

Microchipping

Ensuring your puppy can be found if lost is a form of preventative healthcare.

When a vet or animal shelter finds a lost puppy, they scan for a microchip. Each chip contains a unique ID number that brings up the name and address that’s been registered to the animal. Collar IDs are removable, and some owners may not be comfortable leaving personal contact information on their dog. Microchips are safe and use only passive technology to provide a permanent backup for collar IDs - as long as you keep your contact information up to date. Microchips are inserted under your pooch’s skin through a simple injection and usually last for life.

Unless you wrap your little pup  in a protective shell (don’t do this), your growing and developing dog will probably get hurt or end up unexpectedly sick at some point in her life. The first few days in a new home are an especially stressful time because you’re unfamiliar with each other. It’s hard to know what to expect with the change in environment, so urgent questions are common during this family transition. During the first several months with a new puppy who is younger, smaller, and more delicate, potential emergencies are also a bigger concern compared to a more robust, older, and larger dog.

It can be difficult to know when you need veterinary attention or if the problem will simply get better on its own. You might be wondering if you need to go to the pet ER now, or if it can wait until morning. Online virtual veterinary care appointments are an easy way to get quick answers to time-sensitive questions like these. During a virtual appointment, your vet will use their experience to help you decide how quickly you should get your puppy to an in-person clinic if medical attention is warranted.

When faced with a potential medical emergency, follow these steps:

1. Take a breath. While it may be quite stressful, try to keep calm in order to listen and make sound decisions.

2. Assess the scene. Before you contact the vet, collect all the info you can. Gently  check your puppy and note everything that appears abnormal: assess breathing, gum color and responsiveness. Check around the house and yard for relevant clues.

3. Jot down relevant details – your vet will have questions about recent eating, drinking, and bathroom habits as well as the presence of any symptoms like vomiting or diarrhea. If your puppy has gotten into something potentially toxic, have the packaging available.

4. In situations where it’s obvious your pet needs medical care as quickly as possible, do not waste time pursuing online information or care; call your local vet right away.

5. If your pet seems stable and you’re not sure if it’s an emergency, reach out to Vetster for an online virtual care appointment right away. We can help you further assess the situation and decide what to do next.

The types of medical emergencies puppies and dogs can experience are numerous. The bottom line is this: be aware and be prepared. Odds are good your dog will need emergency veterinary care at some point during his life. Have a plan and the resources to provide him with the care he will need. A good emergency plan addresses questions like these:

• Does your regular vet see emergencies during the day? What about after hours?
• Where is your closest emergency center?
• Can you lift and transport your pup easily?
• How will you pay for emergency care?

The cost of emergency veterinary care is a big concern for most pet parents. The bottom line is that decisions for how to diagnose and treat a sick pet are made between you and your attending veterinarian based on your budget. Even though these can be difficult conversations to have, be upfront with your vet about what you can and cannot do. Consider getting pet insurance or starting a savings account when you first bring your puppy home to help meet this need.

About Vetster

Online veterinarian and virtual pet care services available on demand

Every pet parent knows that pet healthcare isn’t a 9-5 job. Whether your puppy suddenly develops a case of late-night diarrhea, or you’re just not sure if he’s eating the right food, Vetster has you covered. It’s important that the answers you seek come from a trusted, reputable source. There is none more qualified to provide advice than a veterinarian. At Vetster, we connect pet owners to thousands of licensed veterinarians ready to provide the best online vet services through video chat appointments 24/7.

Owning a puppy is exciting and rewarding – and we’re here to empower you to be a confident puppy owner through every fascinating milestone.